“The wines are never one-dimensional.” This has purity and precision, linearity and drive. It just takes one sip to experience the magic of Rangen. Each of the 51 grand crus boasts a spirit and personality of its own, so it may seem unfair to highlight just seven of them. Domaine Ostertag 2014 Muenchberg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); $65, 95 points.
For now, it is mossy citrus that is most aromatic while rich fruit still needs to unfurl. What makes a grand cru is all of these elements, but they only come together when there is a human being behind it.”. But these are truly la crème de la crème. Drink 2018–2030.
Dopff Au Moulin 2014 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru Riesling (Alsace); $34, 92 points.
The Riesling from this densely planted site has the same quiet, convincing power. Drink now through 2020.—A.K. It is very well drained, and so the weeds would take water away from the vines.” The rows have to be plowed, and the stone walls that form the terraces often have to be repaired and rebuilt.
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The domaine is known for its precise, taut style. The floral spirit is dominant and marks the light structural sensation. Geisberg is another steep, terraced, south-facing site that rises to 1,150 feet above sea level. Its terroir, over 36.45ha, is composed of Jurassic-period marl and limestone as well as Oligocene limestone and marl, formations which retain dampness and are resistant to drought. “I think the gypsum brings something very specific to the wine, something complex and somehow bitter, like mandarin and orange peel, something vibrant but delicate,” he says. It’s a suntrap whose dry, stonewall terraces are warm to the touch, even on frigid, sunny winter days. These plots face east, southeast and, due to numerous lateral valleys, also south, which provides optimal sun exposure. Right now this is totally brisk, invigorating and refreshing but its true colors won’t show for some time. “It’s is one of the most emblematic sites of Alsace.”.
The freshness of 2014 makes it lip smacking and bright, despite all of its richness.
Standing in the vineyard, you look directly down on the tiled, red roofs of the medieval houses.
The Hugel family also owns land in this vineyard and have traditionally bottled the wines from this site under their Jubilee label. The bitter touch, present in many regional dishes or cold meats, as well as in the smoked sea-based products and vegetables such as potatoes, allows for a combination and association of flavours between the dishes and the wine.
When the Grand Crus were selected, there was certainly a tendency that all villages should get a Grand Cru, for the purpose of "justice". How Wine-Searcher Works “Hengst amplifies everything. “We have botrytis almost every year, but it’s really clean, pure and intense.”.
André Ostertag, who farms biodynamically here, takes the grand cru idea beyond physical properties. The depth revealed by this Cru, blends distinct and extensive acidity to a light spirit procuring a refreshing sensation. Here, this grape variety manages to develop all its aromatic potential and reveals the finesse and saltiness of this terroir. Gazing at the Muenchberg’s sinuous slopes from a distance and later standing in the vineyard, the deep stillness and peace of this secluded valley becomes apparent.
The region’s complex geology, a function of the Upper Rhine rift, means that each grand cru boasts its own unique soils.
These Pinot Noirs offer freshness and graceful power derived from fruit concentration, rather than from extraction.
The Altenberg de Bergheim, Kaefferkopf and Zotzenberg vineyards are allowed to produce blended wines, each with its own permitted varieties and relative proportions. Some of the vineyard boundaries are controversial, like anywhere in the world where growers try to classify land. The grand cru is south-southeast facing and dominated by different limestone formations and clay. The palate adds a touch of stone fruit, a touch of ripe mirabelle plum—its generosity only underlined by the taut lemon freshness that pervades the wine. The effect is of harmonious, gentle and generous balance. Vineyard Brands.—A.K. The 51 best parcels are designated grand cru—choice spots that dot the headlands and foothills of the wooded peaks, never on the plain. Théo points to the Schlossberg’s steepness, where terraces were built hundreds of years ago. (The sole exception to that is Sylvaner, in the Zotzenberg Grand Cru.)
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